Photograph by Tim Walker. Styled by Sara Moonves. Designer Martine Rose may not be a household name, but many fashion insiders are celebrating the news that she has been appointed Balenciaga’s next creative director. The Jamaican-British designer’s eponymous menswear line not only has a cult following, she’s also no stranger to the French label founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga. She served as a menswear consultant during the earliest year of former creative director Demna’s tenure, helping to establish many of the familiar codes that defined that era.
“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” said Rose in a statement. “Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.”
“Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions, and redefining the boundaries of fashion,” added Kering CEO Luca de Meo. “Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless, and deeply contemporary vision.”
Rose will succeed Pierpaolo Piccioli, who exited the house yesterday after just 18 months. Although a talented and respected designer, Piccioli’s romantic Italian vision often clashed with the generation-defining streetwear look that Demna established at Balenciaga during his 10-year tenure. Reports suggest that de Meo envisions the brand as a connector between those on the fringes of culture and Gen Z buyers. Notably, menswear sales—which rose dramatically under Demna—had begun to wane. Rose may be a more natural fit to cater to the Demna clientele.
Rose, born in London’s working-class neighborhood of Croydon, graduated with a degree in fashion design from Middlesex University. She established her own brand in 2007, which for years existed under the radar. In 2011, she won the support of Fashion East, London’s nonprofit fashion incubator program. News of her behind-the-scenes role at Balenciaga helped to raise her profile among fashion insiders.
Since then, her line has enjoyed something of a cult status. A pair of neon heeled sneakers from a collaboration with Nike could be classified as fashion’s favorite It sneaker. Hailey Bieber has often been spotted in Rose’s outerwear (husband Justin is a fan too). Kendrick Lamar wore a Rose-designed jacket to perform at the 2025 NFL Super Bowl halftime show. Dua Lipa , Kim Kardashian , and Rihanna have all been spotted in her designs, while the stylists of several K-pop stars often dress their clients in her wares.
Tiffany Boubkeur/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images Rachpoot/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images/Getty Images Kevin Sabitus/Getty Images Sport/Getty Images Robert Kamau/GC Images/Getty Images INFO 1/4 Cate Blanchett wore a translucent Martine Rose trench coat on the cover of W ’s Volume 5, 2018 issue.
Cate Blanchette wearing a Martine Rose trench coat on the cover of W Volume 5, 2018.
Rose finds inspiration in her Jamaican-British upbringing, ‘90s rave culture, and the everyday clothing of the streets, though always with an unexpected twist. She’s staged fashion shows in markets, her daughter’s primary school, and directly on the streets, and has long taken pride in her niche status in fashion. “I feel really proud of it all,” she told W in 2018 of he growing success. “But then I remember, I like being under the radar.”
Still, her frequent collaborations with brands like Nike, Napapijri, Clark’s, and Supreme have been commercial successes, and Rose’s name has been floated as a candidate for bigger jobs (reports suggest she was considered to take over as Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative director before the job went to Pharrell Williams). Still, the future of Rose’s own line has been thrown into question recently. In 2023, Tomorrow Ltd, a fashion incubator aiding up-and-coming designer brands, acquired a 60 percent stake in the Martine Rose label. The company has faced financial hardship in the past year (just this week, Coperni, another former Tomorrow Ltd brand, announced it was shutting down ), and was sold to The Level Group earlier this year.
Rose’s new job will ensure her voice continues to be heard in fashion—this time, on a much bigger stage. She will take up the job immediately, though the timing of her first collection has not yet been announced.
Source: ShowBiz
0 Comments